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How to Shop for a Kayak or Canoe

If you're just starting to look at kayaks and canoes, you might be perplexed by the range of designs, materials, and models available. Relax; there are a few simple rules to keep in mind that will help you narrow down the field of your potential boats.

Rule Number One:
Size (& Shape) Matters
As a general rule, a longer, narrower kayak or canoe will be more efficient than a shorter, wider boat. It's not hard to reason this out: imagine pushing a 4' x 8' sheet of plywood over the water versus pushing a sleek 20' rowing shell. Obviously the shell, with its finer shape and long lines, will give you less resistance on the water than the shorter, blockier piece of plywood. In addition, the shell will have superior gliding and tracking characteristics over the plywood, just as a longer, narrower boat will over a shorter, wider boat.

A wide, flat hull will tend to be tippier on wave faces than a narrower, rounder hull, which has better "bite" in moving water.

The width (or 'beam") of a kayak or canoe is the primary determining factor in the initial stability of the boat. What's the initial stability? It means the stability of the boat while at rest in the water; important for fishing or sport, but not as important as secondary stability, the stability of the boat once leaned over on one side. A narrower, rounder bottomed boat will usually have higher secondary stability than a flat bottomed wide boat, making them better suited for open water use as on Lakes Michigan & Superior.

The depth of the boat will determine the overall carrying capacity; a deeper boat will have more volume and be able to carry more load. Deeper canoes also have a tendency to be more seaworthy in big waves, though the higher freeboard (the surface area above the water) will make them more likely to get blown around on a windy day.

Rocker profile and bottom shape determine trackability
If you look at the lines of a canoe or kayak from the side, you'll notice some degree of rocker, the bottom curvature of the hull from front to back (think of the rockers on a rocking chair). The more rocker, the easier it'll be to turn the boat on a tight circle, as the ends will be putting less downward pressure into the water. For boats to be used in tight wavy situations, a bit of rocker is desirable. On the other hand, boats that will be primarily used in flatwater situations or in situations where the wavesets will be more open should have less rocker in the mid-section with slightly rockered ends.

Most kayaks and canoes will have either a vee bottom (with a defined keel line running down the center from front to back) or a shallow arch bottom. Shallow arches will offer slightly better maneuverability, being less resistant to quick changes of direction from side to side. Deep vees track with very little effort, and are features common on Greenland style kayaks, usually paired with hard chines; vertical side panels that help give those boats very well defined edges all the way around.

Beware of bargain canoes and kayaks that have flat bottoms. A flat bottom shape is the worst of all worlds, having poor tracking ability and a tendency to be very slow, with so much wetted surface that they have unnaturally high drag in the water.

Materials make a difference
There are three materials and construction techniquees common in kayak construction these days; rotomolded polyethylene, thermoformed ABS plastic, and cloth and resin composite (fiberglass and Kevlar).

Polyethylene boats are the most common, using a simple rotational molding process with poly resins to create boats that are cost-effective ($300-$1600) and impact resistant. Most people just starting out do well with poly boats, as they're very forgiving of operator error (things like bashing into a retaining wall at 5 mph...). But, poly boats are a bit heavier than the other materials, and not as stiff, which makes them a bit slower than their glass and thermoformed cousins.

ABS is lighter in weight than polyethlyene, and is a bit stiffer as well. The construction technique with ABS involves heating two large sheets of material in an oven, then vacuum forming them into the top and bottom of the boat. Put them together with a seam fitting, and you've got a boat. In most ways, ABS is the mid-stop between poly and composites, with prices that are closer to poly (typically in the $1300 to $2200 range) and weights that are closer to fiberglass.

Composites use either fiberglass or Kevlar® cloth, set up in a mold using special resins. Properly done, a composite boat will be extremely durable, reasonably light, and very stiff, making them the boats of choice of the most experienced touring kayakers. While a composite boat will be more expensive than a molded plastic boat, they are the most durable when it comes to long-term wear, as a glass boat is almost infinitely repairable over its lifespan. Composite boats also offer the best range of personalized options, starting with a wide choice of colors for both top and bottom of the boat and specific seating setups, built-in compasses, etc. Lead time on ordering a composite boat off one of our stock models is typically 6 to 12 weeks, but for a custom boat that will last your lifetime, that's a fairly brief window of anticipation.

FIT is everything!
After narrowing your choices down, you'll need to spend some time sitting in each of the models that are in your range. Why? Because buying a kayak is like buying a pair of shoes; the boat has to fit your body well and vice versa. Unless the boat is reasonably comfortable for you in the store, it'll never be comfortable for you on the water.

In the cases of longer touring boats, in particular, it's important to try the boat on the water before making a commitment. When you come into our shop, we can set up a demo time for you where you can try 2 or 3 different models back to back, having a chance to try before you buy.

If you have any additional or specific questions that we didn't answer here, please feel free to shoot us an email, and we'll get right back to you with an answer.